GR221 | Hiking across Serra de Tramuntana
Actualizado: 2 sept
We went into the GR221 thinking it would just be a backpacking across Mallorca. And yes, it was beautiful the Serra de Tramuntana, the stone paths, the sea views, the villages, all of that was incredible. But what I didn’t expect was how quickly the trail would pull us into its own rhythm. After the first day, everything became really simple: wake up, pack the backpack, walk, stop for coffee when you find a good place, eat when you’re hungry, and keep going. After a while, you stop thinking so much about the kilometers and just start noticing everything around you, the dry-stone walls, the olive trees, the light over the sea, the quiet moments between one village and the next.
Some stages were hard, especially with the heat and the long descents, but that’s also what made it feel so memorable. By the time we got to Andratx, it didn’t feel like we had only finished a route. It felt like we had seen a completely different side of Mallorca, one that you only really understand by walking through it.
This is exactly how we hiked the GR221 from Pollença to Port d'Andratx, with the stages, the cafés we loved, the places we stayed, and the little moments that made the whole trip so special.
Route | GR221 Camí de Pedra en Sec |
Location | Mallorca, Spain |
Start and End points | Pollença → Port d'Andratx |
Total distance | 130 km |
Total elevation | 6,000 m+ |
Terrain | Ancient stone paths, gravel roads, mountain passes, forest trails, village connectors, and steep Tramuntana climbs |
Best season | Autumn and early spring. October–November and March–April are ideal for cooler temperatures and open refuges |
Logistics | Refugees and hotels book out early, especially on a 6-day itinerary, and water can be limited on longer mountain sections, but resupply is easy in key villages and public buses connect both Pollença and Port d’Andratx; daily stages depend on your chosen accommodation setup. |
ITINERARY
Day 1 — Pollença to Son Amer (18 km / 650 m+)
We took the bus from Palma to Pollença and, as soon as we arrived, we made the first essential stop: coffee at La Molienda. Followed by a quick wander through the market to pick up food for the trail. Fresh bread, pastries, traditional Mallorcan empanadas, and enough snacks to fill our backpacks.
We began by climbing the iconic Calvari steps, which instantly set the tone for the adventure. Leaving the town behind, we followed the GR221 signs toward Lluc. The first kilometers were gentle and beautiful: wide green paths, peaceful fincas, and that unmistakable calm that helps you slip into hiking mode almost immediately. As the trail continued, we moved deeper into the forest and the climb became steeper, but it was a stunning ascent among holm oaks and stone paths. The best part of the first day was feeling everyday life slowly disappear behind us. Walking, eating when hungry, stopping for the views, and simply continuing forward it felt like the rhythm of the trail had already taken over.
At Refugi de Son Amer, the hostel was fully booked for the night, but luckily they could still offer us dinner and breakfast, which saved the end of the day. We even spent the evening playing board games with a solo traveler from Canada. In the end, we slept at the nearby campsite. There were families, campfires, and lots of weekend energy around us, but after a full day on the trail, all we wanted was to lie down and rest.
Day 2 — Son Amer to Sóller (28 km / 1,300 m+)
After breakfast at the refuge, we left at 9 a.m. knowing this would be one of the longest and toughest stages. We first descended into Lluc, where we stocked up on snacks and water before tackling the main climb of the day.
The ascent begins almost immediately after leaving Lluc, a long dry-stone climb that lets you settle into a rhythm without thinking too much about how much is left. The higher we climbed, the better the views became, until all we could hear was the wind and our footsteps. Eventually, the trail crested and the famous descent toward Biniaraix began. The scenery changed completely. It was breathtaking, but also brutal on the feet. Between the stone terraces, the stream, and the endless cobbled steps, it was one of the most spectacular sections of the entire GR221.
By the time we reached Sóller, my feet were hurting badly, but finishing a 28 km day with over 1,300 meters of elevation gain felt incredibly rewarding. After a much-needed shower, we ended the evening at Groenk pizza. A cozy pizza place with slow-fermented dough that honestly tasted like the best meal in the world after such a long hiking day.
Day 3 — Sóller to Valldemossa (22 km / 1,000 m+)
We woke up properly rested, had a big breakfast at the hotel, grabbed coffee at Imperfectas, and set off toward Deià. This stretch follows a narrow and fairly busy path along the mountainside, with the sea on your right for much of the route. Between the olive trees, old terraces, and coastal views, it was impossible not to stop every few minutes.
In Deià, we stopped at a small grocery shop to buy water and lunch. They made us a simple sandwich with cheese, olives, and green peppers that somehow became one of the best sandwiches of the trip. After Deià came what was probably the hardest climb of the entire route. It was steep enough to make us stop, breathe, and keep looking back at the sea below but every drop of sweat was worth it. At the top, we found an incredible grassy plateau facing the ocean, where we stopped for water and a coca de patata.
The rest of the stage to Valldemossa was a constant up-and-down, ending with a final steep descent. We arrived exhausted but happy, wandered through the village streets, and ended the day on a small terrace soaking in the atmosphere.
Day 4 — Valldemossa to Estellencs (21 km / 700 m+)
By day four, our legs were tired, but our bodies had fully adapted to the daily rhythm of walking.
To make the stage feel easier, we mentally divided it into three 7 km sections. Instead of focusing on the full distance, we only thought about reaching the next food stop, which worked surprisingly well.
The first stop was Esporles, where we had a traditional llonguet sandwich for breakfast and bought ensaïmadas and coca de patata from a local bakery. From there, we continued to Banyalbufar, where we stopped for lunch and found a lovely terrace with sea views at Hostal Nou.
The final stretch to Estellencs combined forest sections, open sea panoramas, and beautiful stone paths. It felt like one of the most Mediterranean stages of the whole journey.
Day 5 — Estellencs to Sant Elm (24 km / 1,000 m+)
We woke up at Sa Petita Hotel hungry and ready for what we already suspected would be one of the most scenic days of the entire traverse. Leaving Estellencs, the trail quickly gained elevation again, though the climb felt less technical than previous days. We stopped at Refugi Coma d’en Vidal hoping to refill our water, only to find it closed. Luckily, another hiking couple generously gave us a bottle of water, they really saved us a trip back to town.
As the route continued, the mountain opened up and the sea kept reappearing beside us. Every turn seemed to reveal another panoramic view.The rocky descent later in the day was extremely hot, with barely any shade. We kept greeting the hikers climbing in the opposite direction and secretly feeling sorry for them in the heat. When we reached La Trapa, everything suddenly felt cinematic. The ruins and above all the stunning views of Sa Dragonera made this one of the most unforgettable moments of the trip. We also met a friendly large group from my hometown, and chatted with them for a while.
Reaching Sant Elm after a day of heat and limited water felt like pure relief. Our first stop was the supermarket, followed immediately by a swim in the sea. That evening, we had dinner facing Sa Dragonera, already talking about how little remained before the end of the route.
Day 6 — Sant Elm to Andratx (8 km / 300 m+)
The final day had that bittersweet feeling every great trip eventually brings. Part of you wants to arrive and complete the route, but another part already knows you’re going to miss the simplicity of 'trail life': walking, eating when it’s time, and letting the day depend only on the path ahead.The stage to Andratx is shorter and gentler, almost like a soft transition back into the real world.
After days among forests, terraces, and old stone tracks, seeing more houses, roads, and signs of daily life again felt strangely disorienting.It also became a day of reflection.
Arriving in Andratx was difficult to describe. It wasn’t pure excitement so much as a mix of satisfaction, exhaustion, and that quiet nostalgia that appears when something has gone exactly right.The best part of the GR221 is that it doesn’t just take you from one place to another. It teaches you to see Mallorca differently—slower, more consciously, and far more connected to the history hidden behind every dry-stone wall.
I would recommend to anyone wanting to discover Mallorca from a completely different perspective, it’s this one.The GR221 is far more than a long-distance hike. It connects you to the island’s landscapes, history, and traditions in the simplest possible way: one step at a time. It’s not just a trek across Mallorca, it’s a way of walking through the story of the island itself.
